The Spring/Summer 2012 Edition of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) concluded on the 12th of October 2011. It’s a week since then and I was working on the list of ‘My Top Ten Collections from WIFW SS 2012’. After much deliberation I drew up my list of Top 10 Collections ( 4 of which I had earlier posted about) at WIFW SS 2012. The names appear in no particular order:
Nandita Basu: I primarily like the contouring of the seeming simple looking but complex silhouettes by paneling work. The way Nandita adapted the flavours of Rajasthan in a modern way was also applaudable.
Rajesh Pratap Singh: As I had already mentioned, the textiles were simply beautiful. Pratap’s colours for the collection were also very summery and his use of Ikat prints in a very modernised form was something that might give Ikat a new lease of life. The motifs – Dragonflies and Butterflies, the layered shirtdresses, saris with waistcoats and the combination of grey with Tangerine Orange and Candy Pink were few factors that made the collection look awesome.
Sanchita Ajjampur’s Art Deco bikinis and swimsuits made a bold opening of her show. But it was the wide legged chiffon pants; chiffon gowns with unfinished hems and the innovative Sari T-Shirts that made me like the collection.
Namrata Joshipura moved away from the shiny sequined look and showcased some fine embellishments using metal and plastic beads. I loved the goddess draped dresses and skirts, the Shirt-dresses textured with floral and diamond motifs and the spiky shorts.
Pankaj & Nidhi: This coy duo comes out with a drastically new look every season and that is no mean achievement as per me. For their spring/summer 2012 collection Pankaj and Nidhi painstakingly textured the garments using intricate scallops, interwoven cutwork, folds and lattice work that also convinced me that the duo have perfected the art of Origami. The Vinyl Appliqué work and the ‘Light-Bulb’ Motif were so refreshing. It’s not only the texturisation that wins, even their styles which were essentially very contemporary and the construction of the garments were admirable.
Rahul Mishra: His forte is textile, a department where he does plenty of research and that sure did pay off. For spring/summer 2012 Rahul Mishra used lot of Tulle, Silk Organza and some Silk Chiffon and exploited the sheerness of these fabrics to the hilt to create a subtle sensual look. The simple shifts, shirt-dresses, long flowy dresses and the Trench dresses were embellished with embroidered flowers, leaves and diamonds but what stood out was the placement of these embroideries. Even the gradation of colours he used heightened the garment’s look.
Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Kanna: This designer duo is getting better with time. For me anybody who can make a jumpsuit or a kaftan (two Items that I abhor) look nice instantly wins my appreciation. But that’s not the only reason I loved their spring/summer 2012 collection. Sticking to their signature monochromatic colours with occasional burst of orange and red, Rohit and Rahul too juxtaposed the sheer with the opaque deftly. Yes the experimentation with the lapels and collars resulted in some great styles but then what excited me more were those cascading strings or horizontal tassels, the tasseled bustier & shrugs, the fish-scale sequin work, the embellishment with interlocking safety-pins and other metal bits. Mind you, those embellishments were on delicate voiles, organza and tulles and must have required great precision. And last but not the least, Rohit and Rahul’s each and every garment looks perfectly tailored and finished.
Raakesh Agarvwal: What is this fad for ‘designer’ spellings for names? Anyway I was happy to see some structured ensembles amongst his usual draped styles by Raakesh Agarvwal in his Spring/Summer 2012 (Raakesh however preferred to call it Resort Wear) collection. Loved the laser cutwork detailing on dresses and also the laces appliquéd on them. The geometric ‘Dori’ detailing was fine too and yes the hooded kaftan is ideal for Resort Wear.
Malini Ramani: I felt it was a very Rajasthan inspired collection of Malini Ramani. The monochromatic sequence was reminiscent of the traditional look the Kalbeliya dancers, the minis, the bell-bottoms and gowns with colourful mirror-work on them is a typical Rajasthani gypsy look and the sequence in graded hues of Indigo took me back to Jodhpur where from the Mehrangarh Fort when you look down all you see are blue-washed houses. It was a fabulous fusion of vibrant Indian elements on contemporary styles.
Samant Chauhan: True to his roots, Samant used Bhagalpuri Tussar silk this time with sheer Tulle and gave a touch of subdued ornate look with Zari work and Zardozi embroidery to create some great looking ensembles. Loved the wrapped around dresses in “Angarkha’ style and the lehenga styled long skirt paired with an ornate jacket.