Rahul Mishra showcased his Fall-Winter 2017 collection at the Paris Fashion Week on a day that had the luminaries of fashion showcasing their line. I don’t know if the designer choses the slot and the day or it’s done by the organizers. Anyway, on the 4th of March, 2017 before Rahul Mishra showcased his fall collection at 11:30 pm, the doyens of fashion had already shown. In the afternoon it was the iconic Japanese designers- Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watnabe. Then we had Haider Ackermann, Elie Saab, punk goddess Vivienne Westwood (who walked the ramp as a model), Comme des Garçons and Nina Ricci. It is a risk Rahul took as all the columns-centimeters and photo-splash on fashion print-media and digital media were devoted to the big names just because they are BIG. These finer aspects do matter when a fashion designer is showing at the world’s most premier fashion platform.
I have mixed reactions about Rahul Mishra’s fall 2017 collection. The jackets were fabulous and the imagery (motifs) was at times ‘trippy ‘and at times naive like Van Gogh’s paintings of the sunflower. I loved the graphic embroidery that created the illusion of circular motion. Imagine what looked like a digital print is actually hand-embroidery. What may seem to a fashionista as a PIXEL of a Print is actually a PRINCESS KNOT. Such painstaking work and such finesse can only be revered at Couture shows. Though many designers used checks and tartans this time, the monochromatic checks Rahul used was too extensive. He concentrated on separates and a layered look, which was kinda grunge; kinda preppy. I wished for some maxi-dresses, some constructed pant-suits and coats and trenches. But then the immaculate cuts, the fabric and finally the out-of-the-world embellishment made it a nice collection.
Coming back to proposing that Rahul Mishra should consider doing a couture show is not a new one. Rahul believes in “slow fashion”. esoteric hand embroidery and innovates new treatment for textiles and their weaves and all this would be best appreciated in a Couture show. It’s not just me but the Chambre de la Syndicale too has sounded him off on considering Haute Couture and this elite club of fashion is willing to take him in. Today when the big labels are doing ‘runway-to-rack’ shows for RTW lines and dishing out fashion at the pace of flipping burgers, Rahul Mishra’s fashion will be at home at the Paris Couture Week.
BTW, Suzy Menkes who is a regular at Rahul Mishra’s shows was partying at model Natalia Vodianova’s birthday bash.
Folks I loved Issey Miyake’s collection. The optical approach was most spectacular in looks where the treated pleats had ethereal swirls of color, reminiscent of Miyake’s ‘Pleats Please’. Balmain’s ‘glamazons’ I already wrote about. Haider Ackermann presented an AW17 collection made up of sharp monochrome tailoring. Giambattista Valli caught the ‘athleisure’ bug and Celine literally moved the audience with a modernist and minimalist collection. Comme des Garçons explored ‘the future of silhouette’. Ahead of her retrospective – “The Art of the In-Between” at the MET that opens on the 2nd of May, Rei Kawakubo put on a truly stunning show.