Pankaj & Nidhi have been keeping their creative juices flowing season after season and hence coming out with beautiful collections. For A/W 2012. I loved the pixelated effect and the geometric and floral motifs created by felt cut outs and appliquéd on the garments. The perforated leather skirts and tops too were innovatively interesting. It is only after reading the press note I learned that the duo used art-form from Poland – ‘Wycinanki’ , which is an art of paper-cut designs to create those hand-cut felt shapes appliquéd on the garments. Interesting research. The collection is veryyy colourful so I feel that might deter some non-adventurous fashionistas.
Abraham & Thakore yet again showed simple is beautiful. The motifs of peacocks and trees in a naïf style added to the innocent beauty of the clothes. Also the way a traditional embellishment form – the mirror work was used by the duo that it muted the bling factor and gave an entirely modern appeal to the garments.
Sanchita Ajjampur’s style is grunge-glam. I know it sounds like an oxymoron but the way she plays with textures, her eclectic layering sense, the treatment of the fabrics and the prints make the ensembles look casually grunge yet the silhouette and the styles are so chic that the ultimate result is glamorous.
Rahul Mishra did a fine collection but I wish he takes a break from Chanderi and the pretty frocks he creates with them. They are very nice but give me a sense of déjà-vu. He used jersey this time and some fitted shapes, that I simply adored but this novelties were a miniscule part of his collection. Same with Kallol Datta. Evolution of designer’s style always impresses. Kallol Datta was getting slotted for ‘dark’ looks but this time his collection was little less ‘dark’ and had hint of colour on those black dresses. Loved the shawl-draped dresses and the constructed pieces.
Meera Ali did a collection that was very different from the usual Kotwara collection by the husband-wife duo of Meera and Muzaffar Ali. It was truly a fall-winter collection that was very modern in style. The ample use of wool in creating dresses with deft texturisation using nips and tucks. I was particularly impressed by the jackets and the slim trousers. Overall it was a truly prêt collection with classic style details.
JJ Valaya was perfect for finale presentation that requires an ample dose of grandeur. Valaya’s all white ensembles were fabulous. I can best describe it as classy chic. He showed how a minimally embellished skirts paired with constructed tops and jackets can look glamorous. The printed maxi-dresses were beautiful and his trousseau range had the right dose of bling and oh those intricate embroidery work make them look rich.
Young designers who show promise are Aneeth Arora, Rimzim Dadu and Jenjum Gadi. These designers have great understanding of global trends, are busting with creativity and are constantly experimenting with shapes and silhouettes to present a fresh look every season. I am sure they will flourish in future.